Coffee can accompany food before the dessert course as well as after it. The source explores that possibility through fine-dining examples. A pairing should make sense on the plate and in the cup, rather than rely on the prestige of a restaurant reference.
Consider the food's richness, acidity, sweetness and intensity. A small, concentrated coffee and a lighter filter serving create different interactions. Roast and processing descriptions offer clues, but they do not guarantee that a particular origin will suit every dish in a category.
Taste a sip alone, the food and then the combination. Adjust serving strength or portion before assuming an entirely different coffee is necessary. Keep a note of what improved or competed with the dish. Thoughtful pairing is an experiment in balance and preference, not a fixed system in which coffee must imitate wine or every elaborate combination becomes a success.
The conversation
A good question can make a better brew.