A must-have for pour-over players: How to choose between volcano pour-over, Matsuya pour-over, and cooling pour-over?

Do you remember the math problem from the last issue? The answer is 15.525g. Now let’s get down to business. Today we will introduce the volcanic pour-over, the Matsuya pour-over, and the cooling hand pour-over .

There are actually no hard and fast rules for hand brewing coffee. The coarseness of the powder, the ratio of powder to water, the size of the water flow, the height of the water flow, the brewing time, in circles or dripping, etc. Everything can be changed according to your personal preferences and habits after you have a certain amount of experience. There is no absolutely correct way or technique, only what suits you.

Volcano style, Matsuya style, cooling hand style

Volcano

★: Creates a visual effect like a volcano erupting continuously. It originated in Japan and is a Japanese style of punching.

Using single-origin beans with a darker roasting degree, it utilizes the carbon dioxide contained in the beans. The coffee powder suspended on the surface has a heat-insulating effect, which is similar to the principle of stewing. The coffee powder at the water injection point swells like a volcanic eruption. The reason why dark roasted beans are more suitable is because they release more carbon dioxide and can maintain the swollen state for a long time.

This method requires a large amount of powder to achieve the desired effect. The repeated steaming process in the first stage can last up to three minutes, which is over-extraction. The water flow in the second stage will be controlled to increase, resulting in insufficient extraction to adjust the over-extracted coffee liquid in the first stage. After the extraction is completed, shake the pot to fully blend the coffee liquid in the front and back stages.

The advantage of this method is that it produces a mellow and sweet aftertaste. However, it should be noted that when using deep Italian beans to try volcanic brewing, the taste is bitter and astringent, and lasts for a long time, with only a little sweet aftertaste. However, there are very few good single-origin beans that are deeply roasted, and it is really hard to find.

Necessary conditions for playing: 1. Fresh beans 2. Steady and fine water flow 3. High requirements for steaming

Advantages: The coffee has a mellow taste, a rich and solid body, and a distinct aftertaste, and can produce a mellow and strong taste similar to that of flannel filter cloth.

Disadvantages: Since the coffee powder of volcano brewing is over-extracted in the center and under-extracted in the periphery, the coffee liquid is uneven. After brewing, it needs to be fully shaken to mix the two "failed" coffee liquids together to form a perfect coffee. However, during the shaking time, the temperature will drop. If you want to directly maintain the temperature and use high temperature extraction, it will cause the coffee to be dry. This hand-brew method requires high water flow control, is prone to over-extraction, and has a biased flavor.

Mokha Mattari

The most famous coffee market name from Matali in Bani Mattar (another spelling is Bany Mattar) province, west of Sana'a, the capital of Yemen. It is a coffee produced at high altitude, usually with good wine aroma, dried fruit flavor, thick taste, and often chocolate bitter sweet taste when deep roasted. Good quality Matali beans are small in shape, and the raw beans have a sweet wine aroma and a moderate ripe fruit fermentation flavor.

Today we use the Ice Eye filter cup, which can make the coffee taste cleaner. Our volcanic brewing method will not inject water to allow the coffee powder to spread to a high position. The ribs under the filter cup can accelerate the flow of coffee liquid to prevent severe over-extraction, which has the effect of balancing the over-extraction of volcanic brewing.

The water temperature is 86℃, the amount of coffee powder is 16g, the powder-water ratio is 1:16, the grinding degree is coarse - BG grinder 6W (China standard No. 20 screen pass rate 35%), and the brewing time is 2 minutes and 05 seconds. Using such a ratio of water temperature, grinding degree and brewing time can effectively reduce the risk of over-extraction of coffee, and can also well show the Mocha coffee!

We did the volcano brewing method three times in total. The water temperature, powder-water ratio and brewing time were all the same. We steamed with 30 grams of water for 15 seconds and then started extraction.

The difference is that the three brewings use the 1st, 2nd and 3rd stage extraction after steaming respectively.

The first brewing we did was steamed and then divided into three stages of water injection, the first injection was 50 ml, the second injection was 80 ml, and the third injection was 100 ml, with a total injection volume of 260 ml.

The coffee has a rich body, strong jackfruit flavor, cinnamon and chocolate aroma, acidity close to green apple acidity, caramel sweetness, strong aftertaste, and a long aftertaste. However, there is a biting feeling in the throat due to over-extraction, and the tongue feels dry after drinking.

The second and third times were steamed in two stages and then directly injected with water to 260 grams. The body was weaker than the three stages, but the taste was smoother, the aroma of cinnamon and chocolate was just right, the acidity was weakened, and it was easier to accept. There was an almond aroma, and the jackfruit flavor was not too strong. The aftertaste had a good spice aroma, and the chocolate flavor was very fragrant. The ripe fruit flavor was very pleasing!

Through brewing comparison, it is found that the more segments in the volcanic brewing method, the less water is added each time, the higher the extraction rate is, and the easier it is to over-extract. If the number of segments is reduced, although the taste and aftertaste will be weakened, the flavor will be more discernible and will not be too concentrated to cause imbalance.

If you like a stronger taste, you can try 3 stages, and if you want to experience richer flavors and changes, you can use 1 stage water injection~

Deep baked collapse

The visual effect of dark baking is better than that of light baking, but it does not mean that it is not suitable for light baking.

The light roasted beans produced by the volcanic brewing method generally have a higher body than the common 1st and 3rd flow. The shaker is suitable for dark roasted beans, and the light roasted beans are more suitable for direct drinking if they are extracted correctly. The steaming and water flow of the light roasted part are much more difficult than those of the dark roasted ones, but if the steaming is successful, the water injection for 1 minute is also stable, and the water injection can be much bolder afterwards.

Generally speaking, the more stages in the volcanic brewing method, the less water is added each time, the higher the extraction rate is, and the easier it is to over-extract. If the number of stages is reduced, although the taste and aftertaste will be weakened, the flavor will be more distinct and will not be too concentrated to cause imbalance.

Matsuya Brewing Method

★: Homemade metal rack, requires a steaming lid.

Matsushita Kazuyoshi

The "Matsuya-style" hand-pour method was invented by Kazuyoshi Matsushita in 1962. He developed filter paper and a corresponding metal frame that would not hinder the expansion of the powder layer. The filter paper was conical in shape considering the extraction water flow, and the special filter paper metal frame was used to maintain the angle of the filter paper.

The special feature of this hand-brew method is that it uses coarsely ground coffee powder and steams for a long time. When brewing, first dig a big hole in the coffee powder, then start pouring a thin stream of water from high to low above the filter cup until the coffee liquid starts to drip, then pour water in a circle outward to wet the coffee powder, cover the lid and steam for 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, start pouring water evenly and continuously. When the coffee liquid reaches half of the coffee pot, stop pouring water, and finally add hot water to dilute it.

Different from other filter paper coffee powder placement methods, the Matsuya hand-pour method has put a lot of effort into water injection, steaming method, and extraction amount. Only 3 out of 5 servings are extracted, and the remaining 2 servings are supplemented with hot water. Even after a period of time after extraction, the coffee flavor does not change much and does not become turbid, which is the biggest feature of the Matsuya method.

Songya hand pour-over has five major features:

1. The taste does not change over time - the brewed coffee can always maintain the quality of fresh coffee.

2. Reduce extraction deviation - it can significantly reduce the difference between the cups of the same bean and improve the stability of extraction.

3. Refreshing and clean flavor.

4. Simple, quick and easy to use, easy to learn and not difficult to master, and easy to use without any hand-brewing experience.

5. Easy to adjust the preferred concentration and easily simulate the coffee flavor to optimize the powder and water configuration

Extraction parameters (1 serving, 120ml)

Bean quantity: 18g

Grinding scale: medium coarse grinding

Water temperature: above 90 degrees

Extraction volume: 120ml

Extraction time: 4min

Roasting degree: City roasting

Filter paper: The filter paper is always in a conical shape sewn with thread. Because it is a thread seam, when a large amount of extraction is performed, it can adapt to the expansion of the powder layer injected with a large amount of water without breaking.

Self-created metal frame: It was made of aluminum when it was developed 50 years ago, but is now made of stainless steel for increased strength.

1. Pour the coffee powder into the filter paper, make depressions with a measuring spoon, and spread the coffee powder on the sides of the filter paper so that the thickness of the powder on the bottom and sides of the filter paper is even.

2. Pour a small amount of water into the center of the coffee powder. The water temperature is about 95 degrees. Pour water into the hand-brewed pot 30cm above the surface of the powder. Imagine that you are inserting the hot water into the coffee powder. Because the thickness is uniform, the center is easily penetrated by hot water.

3. Pour water into the center. When the hot water soaks about half of the coffee powder, start to circle the water column on the boundary between the wet powder and the dry powder. Stop when all the coffee powder is soaked.

4. After the coffee powder is completely soaked, cover the lid and steam for 3 minutes. The coffee powder will expand and the filter paper will swell as well. Since the temperature of the coffee powder is best at 80-82 degrees, if the water temperature in the hand-brew kettle drops, you can heat it during the steaming process.

5. After the steaming is over, add hot water again in a slow and steady manner, from the center to the outside, and from the outside to the center, until 120ml is reached and remove.

Taste: Even after a period of time, the coffee brewed in this way will not change much in flavor and will not become turbid. The flavor is clean and refreshing, easy to drink, and there is no unacceptable flavor, which means you can easily share the beauty of coffee with more friends.

In fact, the Matsuya extraction concept has another advantage: when the coffee beans are just roasted and the exhaust is still quite strong, the Matsuya hand brewing can still maintain a sufficient extraction rate and a clean enough taste.

So after the whole set of technologies, the result of development is:

1. Fold the filter paper.

2. Put the required coffee powder (10-12 grams per person) into the filter paper and grind it to the coarse level.

3. Use a spoon to dig a large hole in the middle and spread the coffee powder evenly on the filter wall.

4. Use 95-degree hot water and pour water with a very small water column from about 30 centimeters away from the filter. Start pouring water from the center first. After the water enters the lower pot, it will start to circle around to wet all the powder.

5. Put the lid on the filter and steam for three minutes.

6. After the exhaust is completed, use 95-degree hot water and inject water with a very small water column from about 15 cm away from the filter until the coffee liquid with a powder-water ratio of 1:5 is lowered into the pot (EX: 20g of powder extracts 100cc of coffee liquid).

7. Add twice the amount of hot water to dilute to a powder-water ratio of 1:10.

Cooling hand flushing method

Use the HARIO V60 ceramic filter cup to brew medium-dark roasted coffee beans and avoid extracting the astringent taste at the end!

1. Step-by-step cooling to reduce the extraction rate at the end. Disadvantages: The overall flavor will be lighter and the taste will be thin.

2. Directly discard part of the tail extract. Disadvantages: The overall concentration will increase and the flavor will be more complex.

3. The tail end is diluted by strong water flow. Disadvantages: The powder-water ratio is prone to deviation, and improper handling will increase the astringency of the tail end.

Hand flushing parameters:

Roasting degree: medium dark roast

Grinding degree: medium grind

16g coffee powder, 240g extract,

Powder-water ratio 1: 15,

Steaming and first water filling temperature: 88°C

Second stage water injection temperature: 78°C

The third stage of water injection and the last stage of large water flow stirring water temperature: 68°C

Here are the specific brewing methods:

Steaming: 25g water, steaming for 20 seconds

First stage of water injection: water temperature 88°C, 50g water, thin water flow and circular water injection method

The first stage of cooling - after the first stage of water filling, pour 80 grams of cold water into the hand brewing kettle to cool it down. How much hot water and how much cold water are this is a unique secret, and it is also an operation that needs to be explored by yourself. It should not be difficult for students with a sensitive thermometer to do it.

The second stage of water filling: water temperature 78°C, 50 grams of water, the water flow is slightly larger than the first stage, and the water is still filled in a circle.

Second stage of cooling - After the second stage of water filling, pour 80 grams of cold water into the hand brewing kettle to cool it down. You may really need a sensitive thermometer. But as long as you act quickly, it will be fine to adjust the temperature before the extraction liquid level drops.

The third stage of water injection: water temperature 68°C, 70 grams of water. This time, you can clearly feel that the water flow is larger (see the angle of the water column). And the three stages of water injection, each one is faster than the previous one. All this is for a more uniform extraction~

Key points: The last stage of stirring with a large water flow - people who have watched Taiwanese baristas brew coffee are generally familiar with this operation. (Again, I am not in a hurry) This is after the third stage of water injection, before all the water flows out, use a large water flow to stir the coffee powder and roll it up, speeding up the water filtering speed and avoiding over-extraction caused by too slow water filtering in the last stage.

Many students will encounter this situation. In the first two stages of water injection, the coffee powder expands due to exhaust, and the gaps between the particles are large, so the flow rate is still fast. After the third stage of water injection, the coffee powder is basically exhausted and sinks to the bottom of the filter cup (especially the fine powder). Moreover, because the filter paper is blocked by the fine powder, the water filtration speed drops immediately, resulting in over-extraction at the end and the coffee is astringent.

This is why some brewing tutorials say "discard the tail end". Of course, discarding the tail end is equivalent to reducing the powder-water ratio and increasing the concentration.

Very lightly roasted or lightly roasted coffee beans may not be suitable for this method. The number of cooling times or the cooling curve must be adjusted. For lightly roasted beans, the temperature does not need to be lowered so many times, or the starting temperature can be raised a little bit, which would be more appropriate. In addition, the grinder used must be considered. The amount of fine powder produced will affect the effect of the staged cooling method. "So he used the method of sieving and then adding back in the initial condition setting to accurately control the proportion of fine powder.

Hand brewing allows people to have a rare calmness and concentration, which is really needed healing!

In the past, when introducing the Japanese brewing method, I often heard a saying: "Japanese coffee shops are reluctant to share their brewing methods. They always like to make the techniques mysterious and difficult, and they are neurotic and difficult to verify repeatedly."

Actually, it is not. Some Japanese seniors are quite keen to share their experiences. However, they may not understand the SCA terminology used in the current mainstream coffee industry, so it is inevitable that they may not understand each other.

Secondly, it is a technique with a long history, and the details have been verified and perfected by generations. With so many details, it is inevitable that some of them are difficult to convey in words. If you don't experience it yourself, it is really difficult to understand the purpose of each detail.

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